Sunday, May 21, 2006

One day when I look back through my blog I might find a tedious repetition of complaints about the heat. As boring as it might be, the heat on Friday afternoon must have been a record. Apart from copious sweating, the main symptom was a complete lack of energy and motivation. We spent the first part of the afternoon sitting on a shady porch outside the main building watching the birds circling overhead. At times like that we temporarily step out of Ferenji mode and into Habisha mode (Ethiopians call themselves “Habisha” from a corruption of an Arabic word used in ancient times meaning “burnt faces”). Moving slowly, conserving energy, always having time for whoever they might meet are some of the Habisha hallmarks. Instead of the usual Ferenji there-is-work-to-be-done attitude we enjoyed a moment of Habisha just-sitting.

There is a rubbish dump near to the college, which has resulted in a permanent cloud of birds circling around the compound. Most of the circling birds are vultures, eagles and huge ugly dinosaur-like Marabou Storks. There’s something meditative about sitting and watching a swirling cloud of these birds as they glide on thermal currents and then descend slowly like a precision parachutist.

I talked with my candidate with the poor English again. I’ve told him I want him to stay in the group and I will help him with his English. He was very happy and, for a moment I thought he was going to cry. I just hope I can actually make a difference now.

Most of our weekend has been spent at Aregash Lodge (http://ethiopie.50megs.com/aregashlodgeengl.html). It’s a luxury hotel in the countryside near Yirga Alem, a town about one hour bus ride to the south. Most of the lodge’s clientele are NGO and diplomatic staff, so the prices for us were steep. A very expensive but very enjoyable reward to ourselves for surviving so far!