Yesterday was a very revealing day. I observed Teydin’s HD session at Awassa College. The two Ethiopian leaders were running the session while Teydin did paperwork. There’s no doubt three leaders is more than enough for one group, as Teydin confirmed. She also confirmed that the leaders heard in September that a VSO HDL was being requested by the college and realised that they would not be needed. Afterwards, I met the Head of Physics to ask to see the facilities, only to discover that the Dean had told him that I would be working with them as a physics teacher. They certainly have a need for another teacher. A previous VSO vol had taught there and had produced some good materials for them, but after she left no further progress appears to have been made. This is not unusual. I’ve come across lots of situations were a VSO vol has done lots of good stuff which has been very much appreciated, but after they left the Ethiopian colleagues have not continued to develop resources on their own. Teaching at the college would be interesting and I could produce some useful resources, but it would have to be done in conjunction with Ethiopian staff, otherwise there would be no sustainability.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, I observed Gill’s HD session in the afternoon. The Ethiopian candidates are so enthusiastic. I want to be training on this course!

At the end of the session we were invited by the Dean to accompany them to offer condolences to a staff member whose brother had died a few days ago. There is a ritual for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians where three days or so after the funeral friends, family, colleagues, etc gather in the family house and sit. Bread and coffee are served and you are expected to sit for approx an hour to show your respect. It is OK to talk quietly and it did seem a bit odd to me at first to be chatting and laughing (quietly!). The idea is that simply going and sitting is to show your respect. After an hour, we greeted the dead mans brother and left. Apparently there is an informal grouping called an “idder” which people pay a small amount of money into. The grouping could be a workplace or a group of houses in a local community. If somebody dies in that group (or a close relative) then the money “deposited” in the idder is given to the bereaved family. It’s a sort-of benevolent fund but without the bureaucracy, and is thought of as an important social institution. To not pay into it, or to not attend the bereaved household, can be a serious social insult.

From a death ritual we proceeded to a birth ritual! It’s not often you celebrate both ends of life in one day! Petra (of PIN) had organised a surprise birthday party for Yuri. Lots of Czech food was available and the beer, wine and Black Label whisky flowed. My snobbish attitude to drinking blended whisky dissolved in several measures of Black Label. We ended up being invited to a circus and a party at the ICRC (Red Cross) compound tomorrow night. It’s a tough life.

As for today, well a lazy morning was ended at lunchtime with a phone call from Margaret. The Federal Police had entered a primary school run by PIN, outside of Awassa, and proceeded to beat up several staff and children. PIN took Margaret (who is based at Awassa College) home and told her to stay there. Federal Police are guarding Gill’s college and there are reports of protests, shouting, etc at various government sites. Awassa government schools were closed this morning. The staff at Gill’s college seemed blasé about it all. This sort of thing is not unusual and is connected with Sidamo groups wanting their own region. I was advised to cancel my plan to go to Awassa College this afternoon, as it is a prominent government institution. While cycling home with that advice in mind the skies opened, and the locals were treated to the sight of a Ferenji wearing just a shirt and trousers cycling along muddy streets in a torrential downpour with a broad smile on his face. Getting soaked in warm rain is sooooo nice! My mud-splattered, soaked-to-the-skin appearance caused no end of amusement. I was happy and they were entertained. Marvellous!

So, no partying tonight. We heard later this afternoon fromMargaret that one person was shot and killed by the police at the PIN school, which is only 1km outside of Awassa. VSO advised us to not go out tonight. Frustrating but probably sensible. It's hard to know how serious any of this is. VSO will understandably be cautious but there probably nothing to worry about in Awassa itself.